Kazakhstan is a beast! The sheer size of it is hardly imaginable. It seems, that the Pampa begins right after leaving Russia. We passed the border in the west, coming from Astrakhan. After nearly 3000 km, we're still in West Kazakhstan. That might give you an idea of the imense extent of this country.
Kazakhstan wasn't really on our bucket list. Just like Russia, it was ment to be crossed pretty fast. But even the fastest driver takes a few days in the Pampa.
After entering the country by early afternoon, we drive a while. For the evening, we try to get to the shoreline of the Caspian sea, realizing soon that there is no such thing like a "shoreline". While google maps located us far out in the water already, there's still land under our wheels. It's a dangerous thing to try to find water, probably even by foot. Only late i realized that the surface we're driving on gives a wrong picture of its consitency. The sea begins right under that surface, making everything more and more swampy, till you're totally stuck. I manage to put in the 4wd while driving and u-turn fullspeed. A few seconds later we're on hard ground again and that's just where we stay for the night. The quiet is overwhelming, the stars countless and bright.
The next day brings a surprise for Aoife - the first camels out of a zoo in here life =)
The most important mission is to find the best roads goin down to Kyrgyzstan, for springs, tires and our nervs. And we are pretty succesfull! Kazakhstan is building up roads in a rush and many of the ones we take, aren't even a half year old. The few cities we pass, are truly held soviet in any matter.
The next four days are dominated by our driver cabine. One day we manage to drive 800 km, on another day it's not even half of it. Roads change in a blink of an eye. You find yourself flying if you do not keep full focus on the upcoming.
We do not really go far from the mainroad, since we wanna get down to the border as soon as possible - the heat is just too much!
Even though we nearly spend the whole day driving, we meet beautiful people. All of them are surprised by our appearance and welcome us warmly to Kazakhstan.
This funny fella had his ancient motorcycle broken a few km further and needs some help, knocking on our camper door in the early morning. That ment packing our camping stuff and go. When it was finally fixed, two other guys drove by and handed us two fresh fishes from the sea. Which made it an interesting morning to wake up for. The greatfulness of the motorbike guy was heartwarming.
At least the evenings cooled down a bit, while the wind became a challenge for our rooftent. None the less, a great feeling to be out in nowhere like this.
Along the dried out Aral lake, we slowly get more and more south. By reaching Turkystan, we take a visit at the Mausoleum of Hodscha Ahmad Yasawi. It's supposed to be one of the most impressive ones in Kazakhstan, and it surely is!
An elderly security guard runs up to Aoife to ask where we're from. He had to come and get an own proof of us, travelling with a dog! He couldn't believe it =)
He then became our personal tour guide and explained to us everything he knows about this ancient place. What a beautiful old man he was.
Leaving the city of Turkystan, we get to the first hills on the horizon.
The days in Kazakhstan were full of impressions despite the empty landscpape. For us, it was the first really exotic experience travelling by van since we left home. The Pampa is stunning and tiring at the same time, the hours in the driver seat endless. Still, i never got tired of looking left and right to recognize even the smallest change of landscape.
And then - the kyrgyzian border region, so green and diverse!
We're one step away from our dream destination - see you there!
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